Still in Bali but have moved onto a tiny island off the coast called Gili Air.

Are Team 2up actually on a motorbike trip I can hear you asking! We are but we are still waiting for our bikes to clear customs. Our saying is, “when life gives you lemons, drink Margaritas on the beach (I know that should be limes but that didn’t work in this instance!)”. Again, the cost of accommodation here is unreal – we are a short walk to the most amazing beach and our villas are GBP14.00 per night including a fantastic breakfast served to us on our veranda. It’s cheaper to be on a motorbike tour than living at home!
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We do have some news on our bikes, they are in the country now and have been x-rayed, so we do just need customs to inspect them now. The wait is having a ‘knock on’ effect, as the time spent here is eating into our journey times to meet our guide in China, which is the one deadline we have to meet. We won’t be able to ride any faster through Indonesia, so we’ll have to ride longer days and have fewer rest days, but right now, that seems like a price worth paying!

So where are we?

We landed in Bali on Friday night and found our way to an amazing place that Linda and Jude had found, miles away from any ‘hustle & bustle’ and a welcome contrast to the heat of Perth. We have a villa each and a lovely pool, these villas cost £30 per night, which was cheaper than camping in Australia! We have flown all our camping gear on to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan as we knew accommodation would be good value from here to China.

Everything here was built by a local high priest and used to be a place where they trained monks, so the grounds are full of the most intricate temples and offerings are still left to the gods and ancestors 3 times a day. We have so easily relaxed into the way of life here, that we could go full ‘Marlon Brando’ (Apocalypse Now) if we stayed much longer! We will be moving on soon but need to be in Bali at least until the 9th when we hope our bikes will clear customs, it’s a holiday here until then.

One funny story was our encounter with the immigration officers at Denpasar Airport, you know how these guys can be if they’re having a bad day. The queues were massive, we had to queue up to pay for our visas first and then show them at the immigration desks some 2 and a half hours later! We were full Team 2up in our T Shirts – Richard went through first with a few questions with Jude shortly after, she was quizzed as to whether she was a rider too and a bit more about our plans. Linda was after Jude and the desk next door opened up for me, so we both stepped forward. Linda’s guy had all the information he needed from Jude and was busy telling Linda about all the places we should visit while in Indonesia. He then left his desk to tell my guy all about our trip, my guy asks are we going to fish while we’re here and whips his phone out to show me all the best places to fish in Java and about a live volcano that we have to visit, they spent about 5 minutes with us - you couldn’t make this up! I could however feel a hundred pairs of eyes burning into us from the queues behind.

Today we all fly out to Bali in Indonesia. We will leave a magnificent country and continent behind us and all the wonderful people we have met along the way, and start leg 2 of our journey with much to look forward to plus some new challenges as well.

Both bikes have had  their fuel drained, battery disconnected and crated by Auto Classic BMW Motorrad in Perth, Thanks guys, and have been collected by Jetfast, the shipping company for Airfreighting to Denpasar in Bali. They were originally scheduled to fly out on the same day as all of us but due to National Holidays and weekends we have had to delay their departure so as not to incur massive airport demurrage charges while waiting for the authorities to return to work and process the import paperwork. So we have to wait an extra 10 days in Bali. Nice you might think? Yes indeed, but 10 days is a long time in our schedule, almost the allotted time planned to travel from Bali to Malaysia, which will mean we will be under pressure to make up time to remain on schedule for our China entry date. We will also have to be navigating the every changing regulations on importing the bikes and license and insurance requirements.

We have just under 3,000 kms to cover through Indonesia with poor, winding and crowded roads. It's going to be a challenge. There are Toll freeways in Indonesia but large motorcycles are not allowed to travel on them. It's considered too dangerous.

Our average speed through Australia was 79km/hr and we never went above 100km/hr and we have planned to average 40km/hr on the roads of Indonesia, which might actually be a stretch, so we will have too ride longer days than our usual 4-5 hrs per day in order to catch up. To make things even more challenging its still Monsoon Season in Indonesia and today they have issued a EXCESSIVE  HEAT warning with high temperatures and humidity in the high 90s plus tropical rains and thunderstorms. Oh Joy!

This leg might be a challenge but on the other hand there is much to look forward to as we travel across the islands of Bali, Java and Sumatra and across to Malaysia: kind and generous people, their cultures and cuisine, magnificent landscapes and interesting customs. We all also be crossing the equator on this leg and into the northern hemisphere!

We hope to get our first Video up on our YouTube channel while we wait in Bali so watch this space for more information. Thanks and see you in Bali!

It has taken us 18 days to travel the 6,051 kms from Sydney to Perth with 2 and a half days off. It's a BIG country. 6,000 kms is like going from Wales to Tehran, and it represents about 17% of our overall distance to be travelled and about 15% of the riding days planned.  

We have taken the bikes to Tyres For Bikes in Perth for a new set of Tyres. A big thanks to these guys for fitting us in at short notice and getting them on the bikes in record time.

The bikes have been dropped off at Auto Classic BMW in Perth for putting into shipping crates and providing the certificate for fuel evacuation and disconnecting the batteries, which is required in order to ship the bikes.  Again a big thanks to Howard, Jonas, and Carl at BMW for all their help and taking all my calls over the past 12 months.

Another generous act of support from the wonderful Black Dog Ride group from Denmark was to escort us from Denmark through the Valley of the Giants to Walpole.  We thought the drive up Scottsdale road to Bev and Roger's house was magnificent but riding through the massive trees on superb biking roads further extended the experience of this beautiful part off the country. Roger and Bev led the way on their immaculate Harley and followed by Roy and Carol and Murray and Shari on their Can Am Spyders. I must say they do look very comfortable and could easily accommodate all the luggage that we have. 

We stopped in Walpole and were treated to coffees by Roger and Bev. Chatted for a while and then said our reluctant farewells to this amazing group of people.

Bev and Roger are "Salt of the Earth" individuals. Showing all of us extreme kindness and generosity as strangers. Taking us into their home, entertaining us and imparting their knowledge. We have learnt so much from them in a short space of time and it is very much appreciated. We hope that we can repay this kindness sometime in the future but in the meantime their words of wisdom and our appreciation will linger for a long time.

Bev and Roger extended their generosity and offered us to stay a second night which allowed us to continue our preparations for our onward journey out of Australia. We needed access to the Internet and a printer for various application forms and emails to be sent which we set about doing after a morning yoga session on the lawn overlooking the lovely rolling landscape.

In a further act of generosity extended by Bev and Roger, they also kindly offered for some of our overlanding friends, Jesse and Rifka to stay and park their 4WD camper at their property. Jesse and Rifka have been travelling around Australia and happened to be in Denmark when we were passing through. It was great to spend time with them and hear about their adventures. 

Lobo checked the oil leak situation on his final drive and drained and refilled it with fresh oil. It appears that it had the correct amount in the drive so either very little had leaked or there was a small leak elsewhere. All good to carry on.

Linda and Roger went to check to the livestock on the quad bike and feed a premature born calf that was making it quite clear it was breakfast time. 

 Photo, left to right: Lawrence, Linda, Stephanie Wierobiej, Murray Bolitho, Shari Bolitho, Warrick Gates, Jude, Roger Seeney, Richard, Ed Wierobiej, Leanne Mifflin, Peter Kelly, Linda Falls, Ros Gates, Jamie Falls, Bev Seeney, Barb Barker behind the camera

We carried on along Route 1, the South Coast Highway, through the continuing expanse of the South Coast wheat belt with farms the size of UK counties. Massive grain storage silos punctuate this landscape. Grain carrying Roadtrains roar down the road, their disturbed wind buffeting us as they pass.

As we approached Denmark the roads started to sweep and bend, rise and fall and the trees grew taller offering much appreciated shade and variation to the previous few days rides. We headed out of town on the wonderfully scenic Scottsdale Road to meet up with Bev and Roger, very well known WA people who do so much for the community, not just for Black Dog Ride.

When we first approached Black Dog Ride earlier in the year Lawson Dixon, the General Manager of Black Dog Ride Australia, introduced us to Bev and Roger Seeney and suggested we meet up. Without hesitation Bev and Roger proposed a Pizza evening at their home just outside the beautiful town of Denmark WA with other members of the local Black Dog Ride group. We snapped up the opportunity and put it in the diary and a stop on our route from Sydney to Perth

Later in the trip Bev and Roger VERY kindly offered to put us up for a couple of nights at their home. We had been planning to camp so it was very much appreciated. Such kindness and generosity to 4 complete strangers.

​We turned off Scottsdale Road and down the gravel driveway where Bev and Roger greeted us with beaming smiles, helped us sort out the bikes, and showed us to our wonderful accommodation. Bev and Roger have a wonderful story and have been at this property for over 30 years, building it up from a bare block, stone by stone, plank by plank, and by jove have they done an amazing job. Set on a many acres of pasture and woodland with dams and an assortment of animals there was plenty to look at. Roger took us down to one of the dams where he had set some traps in the dam to catch some Marron, a large freshwater crayfish and delicacy. We felt spoilt already!
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Bev and Roger had organised an evening gathering of their friends and Black Dog Ride supporters. A gastronomic delight was put on for us with the Marron, Salads, Pizzas and drinks and best of all the wonderful company we had. We talked about the wonderful work Black Dog Ride do for people all over the country and indeed overseas as well. We came to understand the importance of Mental Health awareness and how much of an issue it actual is in Australia and how this team go about assisting those in need. We have witnessed this work first hand many times on our journey across Australia which is a testament to the dedication of this organisation. Great to see good work actually being achieved. Our heartfelt thanks and appreciation go out to Bev, Roger and the local group for their genuine warmth and friendship. Thanks guys!

For those reading this post please do check out the Black Dog Ride web site HERE and please let others know of this wonderful organisation. You can also make a donation to their cause HERE

A teacher from a local School very close to where we were staying in Munglinup had contacted us via Facebook a few days prior asking us if we had the time to pop in to their school and see their students on our way west. The timing worked and we rode to Jerdacuttup Primary School with its total of 4 students. Yes, just 4, with 6 teachers.

We spent a short while with two of the students, the other half of the school had gone swimming, and learnt a little bit about their school. Located on the Infamous Rabbit Proof Fence and about 150kms west of Esperance The school has an interesting history. In 1964 local parents built a stone school where 8 children did lessons by correspondence. Later that year the Education Department appointed a teacher. The school then boasted 10 students. In 1966 a new building was added. The old stone school has been moved from its original location and is now a functional and inspiring music room within current school grounds. The school serves the community of mainly farms in the region.

We had a relaxed start to the day in Esperance, knowing it would be a short-ride day as we needed some time with Internet access to complete the final arrangements for the shipping of the bikes to Bali and call the visa centre for our China Visas, plus we badly needed to update this blog and attempt to catch up on our progress reports. 

Jude had booked us into a caravan park a few kms from the coast and about an hour west out of Esperance. We pulled into the Munglinup Roadhouse for coffees and something to eat and to buy some food for lunch and supper.

Parked across the road was another travelling biker who came over to introduce himself. Bizarrely Rob had read about our travels and we sat down for a long chat and exchanged stories of the road. Rob is travelling from Broome in the far north of Australia and across to Sydney, visiting friends along the way. We said our good byes, very pleased that we had met a wonderful fellow biker and Black Dog Ride supporter and purchased some food and drink from the Roadhouse before heading down the track to the Munglinup Beach Caravan Park, another gem of a place. We only wished we could stay longer to enjoy the surroundings and everything it had to offer. Set in the bush with cabins, campsites, seating areas and fire spots we could see it would be a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the natural surroundings, although it was not to be as we have work to do.

Linda and Lawrence caught up on their business emails and Facebook posts and Richard set about phoning the shipping agents and BMW dealer to make the final arrangements for crating and airfreighting the bikes to Bali the following week along with calls to the China Visa centre in Perth to check on application procedures. Documents were photographed and emailed accordingly. The plan is coming together.

We enjoyed the cabin, its beds, showers and facilities and the time to catch up on much needed tasks. Onwards to Denmark tomorrow and a much anticipated meet up with the local Black Dog Ride group.

With the recent clock change we were up even earlier than normal - The Roadhouse was not even open! The rise of the soft dawn light and the chorus of birds in this oasis ushered in the new day and the Roadhouse opened its doors and turned on the fuel pumps. We were eagerly waiting to get on our way making the most of the cooler morning temperatures.

While we were filling up with fuel a smiling character on an electric bike rode up to us and asked if we were from Wales, having seen the Welsh flag and UK number plate on Lobo and Linda's bike. "Sure, yes, we are riding back home to Wales from Sydney" Turns out it was none other than Nick Sanders, the famous Motorcycle and cycle adventurer who has circumnavigated the globe a number of times breaking various world records. Really? Here on the Nullabor, miles from anywhere? Nick is on his latest round the world adventure on his electric bike. He looked remarkably chipper considering where he has come from and where he is heading. Nick lives within an hour from Lobo and Linda so it was great to meet him.

We said our goodbyes to Nick and continued on the road west towards Perth on the 90 mile straight, Australia's straightest section of road, dead straight for an hour and a half. Again the temperature climbed and the wind felt as hot as a hair dryer, burning the nostrils.

Our original plan was to camp just south of Norseman but the prospect of camping in that heat was not something we looked forward to especially as just a few hours south, in Esperance, the temperatures were nearly 20c less! So we filled up with fuel and water in Norseman and turned south towards the coast adding an extra couple of hours to our day's ride. We phoned ahead to book a camp site but we were told that we would be lucky to find anywhere and that we should go to the "overflow" campground at the Esperance Showground.

Gibson Soak Pub was a stop over point on our way to Esperance where we stretched to legs and purchased some drinks for our arrival in Esperance. It was a great pub and we would have liked to have stayed there and camped but it was also fully booked.
 
We arrived in Esperance in the late afternoon, booked in at the temporary office cabin, along with a quite a few other people, and gladly pitched our tents. John, the ex Brit site manager suggested a Chinese restaurant that was well worth the visit, possibly the best Chinese in the world we were told, so once the tents were set and we washed we walked the 15 mins to meet Judy the restaurant owner. We were all ravenous and the food went down in double quick time. Judy, the bubbly and enthusiastic restaurant owner came to see us and gave us some suggestions as to places to visit: Lucky Bay!! Must Visit Lucky Bay!