As we head west the sun is rising noticeably later but we are up and packing already, our internal body clocks not adjusted but taking advantage of the cool morning temperatures. We were on the bikes as the purple light turns to pink and then blue. Surfers are up early waxing their boards in eager preparation for their day of shredding waves. 

The road to and from the campsite passes over a causeway with salt dried lagoons on either side, one of which has an amazing pink colour to it. We stopped to take it in, Lobo and Linda taking advantage of a good phone signal to check their business bookings and I pulled out the drone to try and get some aerial shots of the lagoons.

Over the past 12 months we have discussed the coming of this day many times as we will be starting our journey across the Nullabor Plain, a barren treeless (Nul Abor - no trees) plain with few facilities, the straightest road sections in Australia and a fearsome reputation for stifling heat, wild Road Trains that will run you off the road and an assortment of fauna that will leap out at you from nowhere with catastrophic consequences. God only help you if you breakdown, we were advised.    

We filled up with fuel and water at the Ampol Servo in Penong had our shots of coffee, Linda abstaining, had a chat with a local Police officer who had duly noted Lobo's UK number plate, commenting we were mad for embarking on our adventure and off we rode due west into the unknown.

The road itself is only a one lane highway and is well maintained but on the early sections the scrub either side is quite close to the road and provides excellent cover for lurking critters so we were on our guard. Evidence of these dangers is all too present with rotting and stinking carcasses of the poor creatures that have met their fate along with a surprising number of flower draped crosses by the side of the road making places where people have come to a sticky end, a stark reminder of the real and present dangers or riding a motorcycle across Australia.  

As mentioned earlier facilities are few and far between on The Nullarbor so we stopped off at most to refuel and replenish our water. The Nullabor Roadhouse was one such stop and Linda spotted an oil leak coming from their bike. Lobo checked it out and it appeared to be coming from the drain hole in the shaft drive/swing arm, possibly coming from the final drive. What a place to have an issue. Miles from a workshop. Lobo managed to get a phone signal, which is a miracle in itself out here, and did some research on the possible causes of the issue. It looked like it was only a small amount of oil and potentially a temporary leak from the final drive seal to the shaft. Lobo decided to carry on a bit and then check for further leaks.

The road continues west along, and close to, the coast of the Great Australian Bight with views over the Southern Ocean where there is nothing between here and Antartica, a huge expanse of water. Between June and October whales with their calves can be seen in the area as it is a nursery for these magnificent migratory creatures.

Our intention was to make camp on the cliffs in an area known as the Best of The Bight but when we arrived the short access road had been closed. We traveled on a short distance and found a similar spot without showers and toilets but with truly spectacular views of the high cliffs where we made camp and set up the stoves for supper. We cracked open a bottle of wine that had been purchased in a Roadhouse and toasted to our memorable first days ride across the Nullabour. We have survived its fabled horrors so far.

The benefits of being in the bush are becoming more apparent: low light pollution and clear skies enable the magnificence of the night sky to be seen and the sounds of silence and wildlife going about their daily chores. However going to the loo in the middle of the night also provides its anxieties: are there snakes, spiders or thorn bushes on your path to the drop loo in the darkness?

Again we were up early and on the road by 7:30am, riding slow in case of kangaroos or emus. First stop being Streaky Bay and a magnificent breakfast and strong coffee in a great location looking over the bay. Seems like a popular place.

Today we are heading to Cactus Beach Campgroup, a Mecca for surfers all over the world as the waves breaking over the calcarenite reef apparently produce high class surf. 

From Streaky Bay we continued west on the B100 which then intersects with the Eyre Highway near Ceduna where we purchased some food and water to fill up our reserve bladders, 6Ltrs, plus our normal water. The temperature again climbed to over 40c on the straight roads as the sun climbed up behind us, thankful that it was not in our eyes, imagining what it would be like riding from West to East. Our eyes still swinging from left to right and back again in a constant motion like a metronome in search for any animals that might present a danger.

We stopped off at the Ampol servo in Penong, purchased coffees and more water to replace what we had already drank and then turned south on the compacted dirt road for Cactus beach near Point Sinclair. 

There are a couple of campgrounds near the beach but Cactus has a better facilities. Linda hopped off and opened the gate on the track and we rode around looking for a suitable spot. As mentioned, it's a popular spot and its first come first served so we were lucky to find a suitable place near a cooking shelter and BBQ area. The wind off the ocean was blowing about 15 knots bringing with it relief from the hot temperatures of the interior we had experienced through the day. 

The tents we set up, mattresses, bags and pillows laid after a quick change out of our bike gear into shorts and T shirts. We all then went for a walk to stretch our legs and explore the beach. Lobo and Linda had a dip in the southern ocean to cool off and Jude and I went for a stroll down to Point Sinclair where there is a jetty and an enclosed area with a shark net. The sun had just dropped over the cliffs but it was light enough for a swim. After doing so we read a memorial plaque dedicated to an 11 year old boy, who in 1975 had tragically been taken by a shark while swimming out to a trawler to get some crayfish for his mother. If he had lived he would be the same age as all of us.

​The facilities on the campground are clean, interesting and well maintained and have a wonderful beach charm about them.

The stoves were extracted from our luggage and fired up, sounding like rocket launchers as the unleaded fuel heated the contents of the saucepan in a few minutes. Noodles with soup and veg stirred in.  

Another early night as all of us fell asleep quickly in the cool night air although wakening later to the sounds of a group playing the guitar and singing. Wonderful.

We were all up before dawn after a night on the hard astroturf and dry heat and high winds of the Australian plain. Packing the camping gear is getting easier. Coffee and teas were made in the park kitchen and the days route was discussed and planned. 

By 7:30am we were making our way out of Port Augusta onto the straight roads with no trees and low scrub bush, taking advantage of the early morning low temperature of 14c. We spotted our first Emus just outside of town and stopped to try and take some photos of another group soon after but they ran away before we had a chance to get the camera ready. 

The roads became more straight, the dirt became more red and the temperature climbed. Carcasses of Kangaroos on the roadside warned us of their dangers. Our eyes shift quickly and constantly from side to side for movement on the verges. We have had many warnings of riding early in the morning or at dusk when an assortment of creatures become major hazards to motorcyclists.

Our morning coffee stop took us into the town of Kimba, a very pleasant surprise. An excellent coffee shop come antique store with an assortment of local rural furniture but serving good strong coffee, just what we needed to keep us going. Kimba is also known for being "Half Way Across Australia" having some amazing Silo art (how on earth do they do that) and being the home of the "Big Galah" 

The temperature continued to climb into the high thirties and then we peeled of the Eyre Highway in Wudinna to head to the coast and the prospect of a cooler sea breeze and lower temperatures that would make camping bearable.

A quick stop off at the general store and bottle shop in Venus Bay to buy food and drinks before heading to the campsite. Earlier in the day we had booked ourselves into the Coodlie Park Eco Retreat, a weirdly wonderful rough bush camp run by a young couple. Set in the bush with raised platforms to sleep on and bucket showers with abundant wildlife all around. The temperatures dropped for a good nights sleep made easier after a couple of beers. 

As mentioned previously we are supporting a couple of excellent and worthwhile causes on our journey and today we had the absolute pleasure and privilege to ride with some of the folks from Black Dog Ride, South Australia. We met Craig Field, a Black Dog Ride coordinator and Mental Health First aid Instructor in Strathalbyn, SA, along with David Poole, another BDR veteran, on his beautiful Indian and Tony and Heather, each riding their own bikes.

We filled up with fuel and coffee and we set off for our destination of Port Augusta via the scenic route of the Adelaide Hills and wine country. The twisting and winding tree lined roads led us to the town of Handoff, passing vineyards and farms selling local home grown produce. The weather was perfect. 14c and partly clouded.

We stopped for a sandwich lunch at a servo before continuing on to Port Augusta. Heather and Tony peeled off and headed home. It was a pleasure to meet them and hear about their wonderful motorcycle experiences around the world. 

As we headed west the temperature climbed, the landscape flatted and became more arid and the greens turned to brown and the road began to straighten. This would be the start of the long track across to Western Australia.

​We stopped off at the historic town of Melrose, one of the oldest towns in SA, established 1840, for a leg stretch and water stop before finishing up at Port Augusta. We said our goodbyes to David who went to stay with friends in PA and Craig turned around and rode back home to Adelaide! 

During the day we had a good opportunity to speak with Craig and hear his amazing and inspirational story. He imparted his experiences of the fantastic work Black Dog Ride do and all the support they have given people. He helped us understand the need to build awareness of the issues of Mental Health and inspired us to try and support this wonderful cause and many people involved. For more information check to their web site here

We said our goodbyes and rode on into the centre to Port Augusta to buy some food and refreshments for the evening. We found the caravan park, phoned the after-hours number and checked in and pitched our tents on the small piece of astro turf near the children's playground. Although the caravan park was surrounded by high barbed wire fences, giving an indication as to the towns prosperity, the facilities were excellent: great kitchen and clean showers and toilets. 
​

We all thought it would be a worthwhile investment to complete a first aid course in case the unthinkable happened along our journey, so that we could provide the best care for each other, and potentially other people. After some searching online a company based in Victor Harbour seemed to offer the best option for us and it was on our route to Perth. We contacted Deborah Geerts, the owner and Operations manager of First Aid For Motorcycles (FAFM), and she kindly offered to host a special group training session for us at her property just outside Victor Harbour.

We suited and booted and rode the short distance through the rolling landscape to her historic rural property. As we arrived there were several helmeted torsos lying on the roadside which indicated we were probably at the right place. Without introduction formalities Deborah set us on a mission to save the poor souls lying on the road side - go and provide immediate assistance! What needs to be done? We were clueless.  

Deborah provided a truly excellent course to First Responder First Aid, teaching us all the responses to all the major traumas likely to occur in a motorcycle accident including:

• Identifying the need for CPR
• Administering CPR
• Using a defribulator
• How to remove a helmet from an accident victim and when to do it, or not.
• Deep wound dressing
• Splinting broken bones
• First Aid kits
• Snake Bites
• and so much more 

We were all very impressed by Deborah's highly professional, informative and fun way of teaching. We came away with the confidence that we could respond in case the worst happens and had many laughs during the day. This course is highly recommended and Deborah is an amazing person with a deep passion for what she does. 

Kingston SE to Victor Harbour. We were up with the sun. Seems to be the routine now. quick cups of tea, and then squeeze in a beneficial Yoga session on the beach before fuelling up the bikes and on the road.

Must do photo stop at the big Lobster in Kingston SE. Jude's sister recommended stopping off at Old Taliem Pioneer town, an amazing collection of old building and memorabilia from bygone eras. What an amazing place, well worth the stop on what would have been an otherwise mundane ride following the Princes Highway along the coast to Victor Harbour.  

We will be staying in Victor Harbour for two nights as we have booked ourselves in for a first responder Motorcycle first aid course run by Deborah from FAFM here in Victor Harbour, although they have accredited trainers all over the country.

We are getting used to the early starts. Up at dawn. Pack the bikes. Quick breakfast. Check nothing left behind. Hopefully the cameras, phones and intercoms have charged and get on the road. This morning we left at 7:30am to catch the ferry across Phillip Bay from Sorrento to Queenscliff at 9am. We arrived at the terminal about 8:30 and the heavens opened but we were under cover and it was a quick shower. 

The ferry was on time and we boarded first and had to stay with the bikes as they were not strapped down. Managed to get a coffee in the canteen. No decaf tea for Linda though. Met a couple on the ferry that had imported an old but immaculate VW camper van from the UK. 

Linda decided that after the heat of the previous day, and the likelihood of higher temps to come, it was time for a new jacket so a new one was Klim jacket with lots of vents was ordered for shipment to Adelaide.

We joined the start of the great Ocean Road, one of Australia's legendary coastal roads, with promises of spectacular ocean views and other wonderful scenery. Although the scenery is spectacular we found that the very high traffic and high volume of tourists, including us detracted from the experience. Many of the scenic outlooks we passed by as the car parks were overflowing with cars and crowds of people. Let's get the heck out of here. 

Having left the crowds behind, and the roads cleared the ride became much more enjoyable as the road swept through forests and rich farmlands and country towns with classic styled Aussie pubs. We stopped for a sandwich and met a group of Red Plate Riders (historic motorcycles) and had a chat.

We arrived at our destination of Port Fairy and checked into the campsite, pitched out tents, unpacked the sleeping bags and mats and had a shower before a brisk walk to the Caledonian Pub for a couple of much welcomed drinks. We had scouted out a Thai restaurant for supper and had a truly excellent meal and realised how hungry one gets after riding all day.

Dawn came too early and we all awoke and packed our tents and camping equipment. How did it all go in this tiny space? Pack and repack to fit it in. Fill our water bottles. clean teeth, wash, set the route. Too early to leave for fear of hitting kangaroos?  7:30 depart. 

The roads straightened out after yesterday. As much as I like bends on a bike it was nice to have a bit of straight road today. 14c to start so the vents on our jackets were closed and we had the heated grips turned on. Not for long!

After a coffee stop we joined the A1/M1 motorway and it heated up to a stifling 37c. Jacket vents opened and much water consumed as we carried on south to the Mornington Peninsula where yet again the kindness of friends, Chris and Becky, was much appreciated as they offered us a night at their house and a feed.

After a great nights sleep and healthy breakfast provided by Rob and Jeannie, we set off on a a days ride that I have been looking forward to for a long time as it would take us to our next destination along the Alpine way and the notorious biker road, the Omeo Highway. 

It was still lovely and cool as we descended along the Alpine Way through the Kosciusko National Park with spectacular mountain views, Kangaroos, wild horses and many hairpin bends. The heat started to build reaching 32c as we turned off on the start of the Omeo Highway a notorious road of 163 km with an amazing 80% bends through gum forest and mountain passes. Absolutely breathtaking and quite exhausting. We found a great place to have a coffee and sandwich for lunch in Eskdale run by a friendly chap who we chatted to.

We carried on down the hill and stopped off at a lay-by for a drink and rest, and waved to a fellow biker passing by who was on his way down the hill. (see biker down post). 

Carrying on our way down the mountain after scene of the accident we pondered our options for the night and found a listed government campsite by a river at Swifts Creek where we pulled into at 5:30pm and set up our first camp on the trip. Very pleased by the facilities: Hot showers and clean toilets. Supper was prepared, beverages consumed before heading to our thin camp mattresses for the night. It had been a long day with challenging roads - I could not estimate the number of bends but it would have been many hundreds so we were very tired and I for one was out like a light.