The Start of Nullabor Plain

As we head west the sun is rising noticeably later but we are up and packing already, our internal body clocks not adjusted but taking advantage of the cool morning temperatures. We were on the bikes as the purple light turns to pink and then blue. Surfers are up early waxing their boards in eager preparation for their day of shredding waves. 

The road to and from the campsite passes over a causeway with salt dried lagoons on either side, one of which has an amazing pink colour to it. We stopped to take it in, Lobo and Linda taking advantage of a good phone signal to check their business bookings and I pulled out the drone to try and get some aerial shots of the lagoons.

Over the past 12 months we have discussed the coming of this day many times as we will be starting our journey across the Nullabor Plain, a barren treeless (Nul Abor - no trees) plain with few facilities, the straightest road sections in Australia and a fearsome reputation for stifling heat, wild Road Trains that will run you off the road and an assortment of fauna that will leap out at you from nowhere with catastrophic consequences. God only help you if you breakdown, we were advised.    

We filled up with fuel and water at the Ampol Servo in Penong had our shots of coffee, Linda abstaining, had a chat with a local Police officer who had duly noted Lobo's UK number plate, commenting we were mad for embarking on our adventure and off we rode due west into the unknown.

The road itself is only a one lane highway and is well maintained but on the early sections the scrub either side is quite close to the road and provides excellent cover for lurking critters so we were on our guard. Evidence of these dangers is all too present with rotting and stinking carcasses of the poor creatures that have met their fate along with a surprising number of flower draped crosses by the side of the road making places where people have come to a sticky end, a stark reminder of the real and present dangers or riding a motorcycle across Australia.  

As mentioned earlier facilities are few and far between on The Nullarbor so we stopped off at most to refuel and replenish our water. The Nullabor Roadhouse was one such stop and Linda spotted an oil leak coming from their bike. Lobo checked it out and it appeared to be coming from the drain hole in the shaft drive/swing arm, possibly coming from the final drive. What a place to have an issue. Miles from a workshop. Lobo managed to get a phone signal, which is a miracle in itself out here, and did some research on the possible causes of the issue. It looked like it was only a small amount of oil and potentially a temporary leak from the final drive seal to the shaft. Lobo decided to carry on a bit and then check for further leaks.

The road continues west along, and close to, the coast of the Great Australian Bight with views over the Southern Ocean where there is nothing between here and Antartica, a huge expanse of water. Between June and October whales with their calves can be seen in the area as it is a nursery for these magnificent migratory creatures.

Our intention was to make camp on the cliffs in an area known as the Best of The Bight but when we arrived the short access road had been closed. We traveled on a short distance and found a similar spot without showers and toilets but with truly spectacular views of the high cliffs where we made camp and set up the stoves for supper. We cracked open a bottle of wine that had been purchased in a Roadhouse and toasted to our memorable first days ride across the Nullabour. We have survived its fabled horrors so far.

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